ID:
510791
Duration (hours):
26
CFU:
3
SSD:
IDRAULICA
Year:
2025
Overview
Date/time interval
Secondo Semestre (02/03/2026 - 12/06/2026)
Syllabus
Course Objectives
This course will provide the basic theoretical concepts for the analysis of those relevant processes influencing the coastal hydrodynamics and related phenomena (wind wave, shore currents and solid transport).
These theoretical concepts will be applied to the solution and critical analysis of relevant problems in coastal hydrodynamics (wave generation-transformation on mild sloping bottom, and sediment dynamics) through the adoption of well-established numerical models for simulating the wave field nearshore (SWAN) and the longshore sediment transport.
The acquired concepts, besides providing the basis for further advanced courses on the design of coastal structures, will support the analysis of wave energy converters as well as support structures for offshore wind turbines.
These theoretical concepts will be applied to the solution and critical analysis of relevant problems in coastal hydrodynamics (wave generation-transformation on mild sloping bottom, and sediment dynamics) through the adoption of well-established numerical models for simulating the wave field nearshore (SWAN) and the longshore sediment transport.
The acquired concepts, besides providing the basis for further advanced courses on the design of coastal structures, will support the analysis of wave energy converters as well as support structures for offshore wind turbines.
Course Prerequisites
Basics of physical mathematics and numerical analysis, knowledge of fluid mechanics.
Teaching Methods
Theoretical lectures on the basic physical aspects for the analysis of hydro-morpho-dynamic processes near the shore.
Computer exercises on the application of theoretical concepts to the analysis of relevant problems of interest in the field of applied coastal hydraulics and engineering.
Computer exercises on the application of theoretical concepts to the analysis of relevant problems of interest in the field of applied coastal hydraulics and engineering.
Assessment Methods
The final exam consists of an oral discussion on the theoretical topics and exercises developed within the course.
The student must demonstrate acquired capacity to: illustrate the problem (e.g., basic assumptions and input data); describe its mathematical formulation (e.g., system of partial differential governing equations and their physical meaning); illustrate the solution method (e.g., analytical or approximate-numerical); perform critical analysis of results (e.g., consistency with the assumptions and the theoretical aspects); explore the influence on results induced by varying input parameters.
The student must demonstrate acquired capacity to: illustrate the problem (e.g., basic assumptions and input data); describe its mathematical formulation (e.g., system of partial differential governing equations and their physical meaning); illustrate the solution method (e.g., analytical or approximate-numerical); perform critical analysis of results (e.g., consistency with the assumptions and the theoretical aspects); explore the influence on results induced by varying input parameters.
Texts
1) SHORE PROTECTION MANUAL Vol I. Coastal Engineering Research Center, US Army Corps of Engineers (1984).
2) J.W. Kamphuis, Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management, Adv. Series on Ocean Engineering – vol. 16, World Scientific
3) R.G. Dean & R.A. Dalrymple, Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists, Adv. Series on Ocean Engineering – vol. 2, World Scientific
4) SWAN Cycle III USER MANUAL. https://swanmodel.sourceforge.io/ 1993-2023 Delft University of Technology
5) Young I.R. "Wind Generated Ocean Waves" Volume 2, 1st Edition. Elsevier 1999 - ISBN: 9780080433172
2) J.W. Kamphuis, Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management, Adv. Series on Ocean Engineering – vol. 16, World Scientific
3) R.G. Dean & R.A. Dalrymple, Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists, Adv. Series on Ocean Engineering – vol. 2, World Scientific
4) SWAN Cycle III USER MANUAL. https://swanmodel.sourceforge.io/ 1993-2023 Delft University of Technology
5) Young I.R. "Wind Generated Ocean Waves" Volume 2, 1st Edition. Elsevier 1999 - ISBN: 9780080433172
Contents
Basics of linear wave theory: linear wave features, velocity and pressure fields, phase celerity and group celerity, dispersion relation, wave energy.
Wave propagation on mild sloping beach: shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection, and breaking.
Wind generated waves: classification. Short-term wave analysis. Frequency- and time-domain analysis. Significant wave height and peak period. Common expression of parametric wave spectra and directional wave spectra. Long-term wave analysis, an outline. Wind generation and relevant models of wave spectra.
Short-term and long-term sea level fluctuations.
Numerical model for simulating waves near-shore (SWAN). Wave action balance equation. Boundary conditions and physical processes. Computational applications: shoaling on cylindrical bathymetry; refraction on cylindrical bathymetry; unsteady wind wave generation.
Longshore sediment transport. Dynamic beach profile. Closure depth. Cross-shore and along-shore sediment transport. CERC expression. 1D morpho-dynamic model for shoreline change predictions. Computational application: shoreline evolution of a pocket-beach caused by an incoming wave field.
Wave propagation on mild sloping beach: shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection, and breaking.
Wind generated waves: classification. Short-term wave analysis. Frequency- and time-domain analysis. Significant wave height and peak period. Common expression of parametric wave spectra and directional wave spectra. Long-term wave analysis, an outline. Wind generation and relevant models of wave spectra.
Short-term and long-term sea level fluctuations.
Numerical model for simulating waves near-shore (SWAN). Wave action balance equation. Boundary conditions and physical processes. Computational applications: shoaling on cylindrical bathymetry; refraction on cylindrical bathymetry; unsteady wind wave generation.
Longshore sediment transport. Dynamic beach profile. Closure depth. Cross-shore and along-shore sediment transport. CERC expression. 1D morpho-dynamic model for shoreline change predictions. Computational application: shoreline evolution of a pocket-beach caused by an incoming wave field.
Course Language
Italian
More information
Lecture notes can be downloaded from the course page on the platform
KIRO
https://elearning.unipv.it
KIRO
https://elearning.unipv.it
Degrees
Degrees (3)
CIVIL ENGINEERING
Master’s Degree
2 years
CIVIL ENGINEERING
Master’s Degree
2 years
ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING
Master’s Degree
2 years
No Results Found